You will be relieved to hear that I’m not talking about “12 drummers drumming” or, for that matter, a “partridge in a pear tree” – we’ve got a few months on our side yet. No, this week’s recipes mark the beginning of the grouse season, which gets off to a banging start on August 12 each year. It means more to sportsmen than chefs, because game birds should be left to hang before cooking, but it certainly whets our appetite for what’s to come.

Grouse falls into the feathered category of game, and with its strong aroma and dark, lean meat, many would say it is an acquired taste. Along with partridge and pigeon, this game bird needs special handling, but cooked carefully, it can be delicious. If you can get hold of it, go for red grouse from Scotland. They feed almost entirely on heather, which gives their flesh a unique, aromatic flavour. And always choose young birds, because the flesh is sufficiently tender for roasting, grilling and sautéing.

All feathered game are prepared and cooked in the same way as poultry, so don’t be put off just because it’s unfamiliar. The key thing to remember is that the birds contain very little fat under the skin, so care must be taken to prevent the meat from drying out. I “bard” the meat with strips of pork fat or bacon before roasting to prevent this from happening, and cook the birds whole to retain their moisture. The breasts are then removed and finished off quickly on the hob or in the oven. Provided it is cooked correctly, the breast meat of a game bird should always be tender, and served pink (the exception to the rule is guinea fowl, which must be cooked through).

The legs, on the other hand, usually require a long, slow cooking to tenderise them and, depending on their size, may not be worth the bother. More often than not, I chop up the legs, along with the carcass, after roasting and use them to add flavour to a sauce. But if you would like to try eating them, remove the breasts from the bird first, then check the legs separately. If they are still tough, return them to the oven.

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