Read
40 more Instant Weekend guides
Why should I go? Why, indeed? Isn’t this the Pyrenean town renowned for
chiming Virgin Mary pendulum clocks, barmy religio-superstitious fanaticism,
miracles and a world-beating assembly of ailing people?
Well, yes. But it’s also Europe’s most extraordinary travel phenomenon, and
celebrating a 150th jubilee this year. On February 11, 1858, the Virgin
appeared to Bernadette Soubirous in a muddy grotto by the River Gave. She
would appear a further 17 times to the illiterate 14-year-old through to
July.
The Lourdes phenomenon was under way, and it hasn’t slowed since. These days,
about 6m visitors and pilgrims show up each year. With 230 hotels, Lourdes
provides more accommodation than anywhere else in France bar Paris. The
faithful and inquisitive of all continents throng to processions, Masses and
shops, jostling the narrow streets like funfair stalls.
Also to bars, of which there is a surprising and jolly abundance. No place on
earth generates more cynicism – but, frankly, it’s difficult to sustain.
After half a day, you’ll notice that something strange is happening here. The
crowds – Italian, French, British, Brazilian, Filipino, you name it – don’t
shuffle like tourists. They have the bustle of purpose. Young visitors, of
an age and aspect to be chucking bricks, push invalid carriages and are
otherwise devoted to the sick and disabled – who, in turn, almost certainly
won’t get cured.
There have been but 67 confirmed miracles. What they get is peace and,
remarkably, precedence. Tens of thousands of able-bodied people give up
holidays and pay their own way to help. You may hate me for saying so, but
the town has an atmosphere of goodness, of people in the grip of something
greater than themselves.
As a chap from Plymouth once told me: “The ability to show compassion gets
submerged in daily reality at home. Lourdes releases people to be good.”
Certainly, I’ve never seen so many smiles, witnessed so much off-the-cuff
kindness – or been bought so many drinks by strangers. It can become
excessive. There’s occasionally one Hail Mary too many for an unbeliever
like me.
There are many special events this year (see www.lourdes2008.com),
but the real reason you go is simply to witness humanity with its best sides
out. I defy you, after a couple of days, not to feel optimistic.
What should I do? Start at the riverside Sanctuary, flanking the
grotto. Its 125 acres of parkland and esplanades open like a sigh at the
bottom of the town. Commerce-free and calm, this is the heart of the place.
Here are the churches (one like a vast underground car park, three others
stacked up in a Byzantine club sandwich), the concrete bathhouse, where one
dips naked, the taps for filling thetuary
Virgin-shaped plastic bottles, and the gatherings. Nightly at 9pm, thousands
process with candles. It is a spectacle serious, subdued and awesome. On a
nearby hill, Lourdes castle is floodlit. Further, one senses the outlines of
the mountains. Cynicism really is a struggle.
It’s less so in the zillions of shops bursting into the streets down to the
Sanctuary. Undoubtedly, these afford intriguing entertainment. But if they
are all selling Virgin shake’n’snow scenes, egg cups and devotional
cigarette lighters, then thousands must feel they need them. Of the several
spots round town linked to Bernadette’s life, restrict yourselves to the
Cachot, on Rue des Petits Fossés. The tiny former prison cell where the
Soubirous family lived tells you all you need to know about their abject
poverty. You might also trek up to the castle, for terrific views and a
reasonable regional museum. Then consider an excursion.
As Lourdes exists essentially beyond geography, one forgets that it’s at the
foot of some of the most stirring mountain sites in France. The Pic du Midi
cable car and Cirque de Gavarnie are to hand. Rentacar (Avenue Alexandre
Marqui; 00 33-5 59 40 16 77, www.rentacar.fr)
has cars from £57 a day. But be back for evening. Nightlife can be livelier
in Lourdes (pop: 16,000) than in any other small French town.
I favour the bar in the Hotel Astoria-Vatican, 95 Rue de la Grotte. Last time
I was there, an Irish lady took a pull on her vodka, patted her ample frame
and told me: “I came to Lourdes to get down to a size 16. As you see,
sweetheart, the miracle’s not happened yet.”
Where do I stay? The four-star Grand Hôtel Moderne (21 Avenue
Bernadette Soubirous; 5 62 94 12 32, www.grandhotel
moderne.com; doubles from £90) reopens on March 20 after work to freshen
up the bedrooms. The baroque style remains intact.
The Grand Hôtel de la Grotte (66 Rue de la Grotte; 5 62 94 58 87, www.
hotel-grotte.com; doubles from £60, but go for those from £88) is of a
similar four-star standard. Among the three-stars, the Hôtel Saint-Sauveur
(9 Rue Sainte-Marie; 5 62 94 25 03, www.hotelsaint
sauveur.com; doubles from £50) is bright and busy.
Where do I eat? Gastronomy isn’t a key Lourdes characteristic. Most
pilgrims are on full-board, with fixed menus ranging from the ropey to the
reasonable. The restaurants in the four-star hotels mentioned above are at
the classier end of the scale. The Hôtel de la Grotte also boasts a decent
brasserie.
Breaking away from hotels, try Le Magret (10 Rue des Quatre Frères Soulas; 5
62 94 20 55, www.lemagret.com; menus
from £20) for southwest specialities. Or take a taxi a couple of miles out
of town to Au Bon Accueil at Bartrès (Rue de l’Eglise; 5 62 94 01 67; menus
from £15), to eat on the terrace overlooking the lovely village.
How do I get there? Tangney Tours (0800 917 3572, www.tangney-tours.com)
runs regular Lourdes jaunts. A three-night trip costs from £385pp, including
charter flights from Stansted to Tarbes (seven miles from Lourdes),
transfers and full-board in a three-star hotel.
Or try Leisure Times Travel (0151 287 8000, www.lourdes-pilgrim.com)
or Mancunia Travel (0161 790 6838, www.mancunia.com).
Ryanair (0871 246 0000, www.ryanair.com)
flies from Stansted and Bristol to Pau (38 miles away).
As one of those volunteer workers who has traveled to Lourdes for the past 20 years I would like to congratulate Mr. Perigrine on his well balanced article, in which he has managed to encapsulate the true essence of what Lourdes is all about. I would encourage people of all faiths (even those without) to visit with an open mind. Laugh at the ridiculous but appreciate and learn from the serenity and hope of the sick.
Kevin Connolly, Manila, Philippines
I went to Lourdes two years ago on a trip with school and it has to be one of the best experiences of my life. I even managed to get over having to wear bright yellow tees.
There's such beautiful sights to see and very neat little cafes. Not to mention how uplifting the atmosphere is with the diversity of people, the quaint (albeit usually tacky) little shops and the general buzz in the air.
And that's coming from a cynical 17-year-old.
Isobel, Leeds,
Considering the number of sick and disabled visitors to Lourdes, the options for specialist travel from the UK are very limited for those with mobility issues or who cannot fly due to health issues. One excellent organisation is Across (www.across-uk.org) a charity who organise group trips to Lourdes specifically catering for the sick and disabled. All groups travel with a medical team, and transport is via Jumbulance, a specially adapted bus with beds, kitchen, medical equipment, and all other requirements. So no matter how severe the mobility or disability issue, you can travel with them. I have done so as a helper for 20 years, every one a pleasure!
Marianne , Winchester, UK
And I believe that you can get years knocked off your stay in purgatory if you go there by means of VaticanTravel.
Stanley, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil